The Mangiapane Cave (“EatBread Cave” :D ), Second part….where the goats say hi!

Grotta Mangiapane a Custonaci
I dont know why but I really do enjoy taking photos of plants :D

I dont know why but I really do enjoy taking photos of plants 😀

Se vuoi leggerlo in ITALIANO ecco qui.

We left with the terrible Medlars that made fun of me for my photographic passion here… fortunatly they meet Mr Mangiapane and begin to talk with him. He is the old keeper and lives in one of the houses of the village.
He’s relative of the last owners of the cave (yes, there is someone in this world that had a cave 😛 ).

Here one house is still inhabited :)

Here one house is still inhabited 🙂

Giovanni likes old people’s stories and loves this place because when he was a kid, he played here and his grandma’s family lived in the village. Then he and Mr Mangiapane meet again and toghether with Signor Carlino decide to remember the past drinking a glass of red wine (Signor Carlino NEVER says No! so look out for your offers to him! 😀 ). While they are in a authentic ancient kitchen , me and the Poetess can discover this place.

Two inquiring Medlars (+ a well)

Two inquiring Medlars (+ a well)

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secrets....

secrets….

You can't see them but there are chickens here (peacock is a favored animal)

You can’t see them but there are chickens here (peacock is a favored animal)

The cave seems a giant’s house and the little houses his toys, maybe Polifemo is arriving, we hear also a pealing in the distance, two goats are climbing down the mountain to return to their little cabin in the village. Where can you see the goats climbing down today? Here everything is colour and peace and I imagine the primitive men who went home every evening and benefit the panoramic view on Cornino Bay during the sunset. Today the sea is grey because it’s March but before long it will be only shining and the sunset pure rainbow. Considering that tomorrow is monday, I envy Mr Mangiapane. He can forget everybody and everything but maybe others forgot him. Here. When you are in isolated places you can abstract from your routine and forget things to do, duties, responsabilities and you wouldn’t go back, three hours are few but I would forget for a little while yet and stay here, in peace. Egoism (but maybe only it’s only tiredness for daily pressure) and hypocrisy blab for me. Living like primitive men, forgetting home, family, university, staying with goats….also if I can live without a bathroom, running water and electricity for indeterminate period I doubt that I could stay far from everything for long time…..maybe because we want to forget something or somebody for a little while but we don’t want to be forgotten by others. Tiredness, Hypocrisy….I want to forget also you and enjoy the beauty of this place, a quite and wonderful place, with a new air and relaxing green because this short trip is ending and there will be neither tiredness nor hypocrisy but only the peace of this place and tomorrow will be another day

Polifemo's House

Polifemo’s House

No bats (for the time being)

No bats (for the time being)

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Polifemo's ricotta cheese

Polifemo’s ricotta cheese

The mountains are reddish-brown with white injuries, they seem Polifemo’s giant baked ricotta cheese! (yes, food is my perversion, I see it everywhere ) . During our walk me and the Poetess approach to the smithy and find many abandoned rusty things. By now it’s dark and we don’t understand what are but anyway I find a iron heart and I take it with ironic displeasure of the Poetess who will declare to all that I “stole her heart away!” 😀 …. Maybe I wouldn’t have to take it but it was thrown away and I liked the idea of finding a heart here because it was like this one year ago but that’s a different story…… 😉

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Wall's secrets....

Wall’s secrets….

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....and Mr Mangiapane's secrets! :)

….and Mr Mangiapane’s secrets! 🙂

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There aren't only happy goats here....

There aren’t only happy goats here….

I found again my heart :)

I found again my heart 🙂

Itinerary: You can reach the Cave
1) by car, from seafront Dante Alighieri go on Nord-Eastward, enter SP 20 (Trapani – Bonagia). At the rotary turn on the left, SP 18 (Via dei Marmi) for Custonaci up to Scurati
2) by bus (AST company)

Distance: 19 Km

Time: 30/40 min

If you want to correct my English (please, be kind because I’m a sensitive person and I’m learning) or suggest something, you can write to fioredinespula@gmail.com
If you want to sleep in Belveliero you can write here bebilveliero@gmail.com (write FIORE in the email 😉 )
If you prefer to sleep in Granveliero and have breakfast with me write to granveliero@gmail.com

A Belveliero for a Captain. Where to sleep in Trapani.

Se vuoi leggerlo in ITALIANO ecco qui.

Belveliero is Giovanni’s B&B in Trapani, the place where officially I study but actually I come to converse with chatty tourists and disturb the owner while he runs and repairs a socket or sees landing plane schedule to go and take his guestes (I’m not jealous, my boyfriend is just a kind person 🙂 )

Welcome to B&B Belveliero! :)

Welcome to B&B Belveliero! 🙂

This B&B occupies all third floor of a building in Liberty style built by Giovanni’ grandfather. Mr Grandfather was a captain! And obvously his building is in front on the sea, in the port, and indeed you can look out the window and greet (really) departing sailing boats, people are arriving by hydrofoil from Egadi Islands or the crew of luxurious yachts that ever and anon arrive Trapani and even salt pans.

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Sometimes I really study here, because is a quiet place and nobody disturb me and when I’m fed up I can go down and walk in port or old town. There aren’t many quiet places where you don’t feel isolated.

Every time I imagine Mr Giovanni’s Grandfather the Captain while looks out by balcony to monitor his motosailer and then goes out and takes care of deals in the town. In an impulse of visionary/literaly euphoria I ever link him to Monsieur Morrel, the kind and honest boss of Edmond Dantés, but that’s a different story….

Mr Captain Giovanni's Grandfather!

Mr Captain Giovanni’s Grandfather!


Image a balcony, take away the dog and he’s (almost) the same (I didn't find Monsieur Morrel pictures on Google)

Image a balcony, take away the dog and he’s (almost) the same (I didn’t find Monsieur Morrel pictures on Google)


This is an ancient building and so has its particular fascination. The ceilings bloom of plasters and floors are decorated with majolicas. They’re not white but full of patterns and colours! There’s something to everyone’s liking, squares, flowers and also small hearts.
In addition this building is pink and has arches, what else?

Hearts under your feet

Hearts under your feet


....but also flowers

….but also flowers

....and many colours! :)

….and many colours! 🙂


and look up, there are shells!

and look up, there are shells!

Fortunately this place is furnish accordind the spirit with which Giovanni took his Bed and Breakfast. The modern is at the service of functionality (always blessed are the phon and Ikea!) and the antique is the particular touch that make you happy to be at Belveliero, where many things have been looked for and desired.

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This place is full of treasures

This place is full of treasures

Belveliero FB Page and website

If you want to correct my English (please, be kind because I’m a sensitive person and I’m learning) or suggest something, you can write to fioredinespula@gmail.com
If you want to sleep in Belveliero you can write here bebilveliero@gmail.com (write FIORE in the email 😉 )

The Mangiapane Cave (“EatBread Cave” :D ), First part

Carretto siciliano alla Grotta Mangiapane sicilian cart in Custonaci

Se vuoi leggerlo in ITALIANO ecco qui.

(I drafted this post in March, so some weeks ago, but I publish it only now. I copy it as I wrote because it seems nice and….forgive me, unknown reader 😛 )

Giovanni and me are fond of the cave Mangiapane, so we decided to take a trip together with The Poetess and Signor Carlino, the other exuberant Nespula (Medlar)

As usual we start from our ‘general headquarter’ in the port (but I talked about also here) and drive through seafront on the way to Custonaci.
This drive is relaxing on Sunday afternoon and you can forget the end of weekend for a little while yet, also if you must do many and many and many things at home instead of driving among the lands >_> ….but this street is between the sea and the uncultivated fields, full of yellow flowers and green grass, and farther there are the mountains, sliced to extract the marble. Ever and anon we surpass little groups of houses and old people who, complicit the good season, exit and talk about the priest and the grandchildren , because yesterday the gossip wasn’t enough and by now there is the time for everything and Monday isn’t a working day. It’s so strange going through these lands during this hour on this day of the week.

The time dilates also if the break is finished and the atmosphere is so weak, but the air so fresh and lively that you can feel that there is time for everything (actually it’s an illusion. I hate you, Monday). During almost all the journey, we drive through a large street surrounded by the fields but, in the end, it becomes very tight, between small houses built nearer the mountain. I don’t know if this is the only way or it’s because my zito (boyfriend) has this passion for millimetric driving but here it’s wonderful! You can harvest the lemons directly from the trees only sticking the arm out the window or count the guys overcrowded in a car, four in front, five in back and three IN the trunk (also the young people have a passion for the ‘optimistic millimetrism’ ). And finally we arrive to Mangiapane cave.

Every time I came here there’s not somebody and then I could benefit the peace of this place.

This cave was the refuge for the primitive men and it was occupied until the ’50s! It’s true! Indeed there is the very little village of Scurati, empty but not abandoned because it’s the seat of a Living Museum of Arts and Crafts during many periods of the year, in particular Christmas. The village begins out but continues into the cave. The houses are closed but in some of them you can see another lost ancient world by a little window.

Village IN the cave

Village IN the cave

The village, the cave, Custonaci view....this place is magic...

The village, the cave, Custonaci view….this place is magic…

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A view to a lost world

A view to a lost world

Oven, Oregano and

Oven, Oregano and “agghia” (garlic) 🙂

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Mr scampering peacock

Mr scampering peacock

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Mrs Peacock

Mrs Peacock

Here there are peace and silence and you can find a peacock walking free or cocks prisoned in the cages. From the cave the view is particular, the lateral rocks seem removed awnings to let look Cornino Bay. This place is so wonderful and quiet that also the two Nespule become calm and respectful…for 50 seconds, then they start again to make fun of me for my photographic mania for the sea, the plants and the houses but maybe they aren’t afraid of forgetting things and changing memories…. 🙂

Cornino Bay.  Primitive men  saw this heaven...(without houses :P )

Cornino Bay. Primitive men saw this heaven…(without houses 😛 )

Here there are ‘zabbare‘ (agaves), purple bouganville, prickly pear cactus with yellow flowers, green medlars, scented white orange blossoms, peacocks and goat’s skulls, milk chocolate mountains, melons and pumpkins abandoned on the roof (it’s our custom, we leave them also in the balcony in summer and autumn, because they are very resistant fruits), dogs like Peter’s Nebbia (do you know Heidi anime?), Friends and Love, I want to take and remember them when this day will be finished.

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“Nature, Nature, I’m your bride. Take me!”

Itinerary: You can reach the Cave
1) by car, from seafront Dante Alighieri go on Nord-Eastward, enter SP 20 (Trapani – Bonagia). At the rotary turn on the left, SP 18 (Via dei Marmi) for Custonaci up to Scurati
2) by bus (AST company)

Distance: 19 Km

Time: 30/40 min

If you want to correct my English (please, be kind because I’m a sensitive person and I’m learning) or suggest something, you can write to fioredinespula@gmail.com
If you want to sleep in Belveliero you can write here bebilveliero@gmail.com (write FIORE in the email 😉 )
If you prefer to sleep in Granveliero and have breakfast with me write to granveliero@gmail.com